Selva del Lamone: a wild labyrinth of myth and nature

Getting lost in the Lamone Forest It's not just a figure of speech. It really happened to a colleague from the Lazio Region and her husband: an impromptu hike, a few precautions... and off they went, swallowed up by the greenery. They spent the night outdoors; luckily it was summer. The next morning, a helicopter was needed to find them among the trees. The Selva had revealed itself in all its essence: fascinating, mysterious, and uncompromising.

Located on the northern side of the province of Viterbo, close to Tuscany, the Selva del Lamone extends over an ancient lava plateau born from the Vulsinio volcano over 50,000 years agoA harsh and wild place, always surrounded by an aura of mystery. In the sixteenth century the same Annibal Caro he described it as a “troublesome” territory, worthy of the worst legends.

To make the environment even more surreal, there are the volcanic boulders Scattered everywhere: some resemble giant mushrooms, others spires or animalistic silhouettes. Covered in moss, they blend seamlessly into their surroundings, like works of art shaped by time and nature.

With his approximately 2000 hectares of dense forest with no landmarks, the Selva is a paradise for expert hikers, but also a place to explore with caution. marked trails, like the famous “Brigands' Path”, lead through stony paths and novel-like scenery. One of these paths leads to the remains of the Roccoia, an ancient protohistoric settlement later used by the Etruscans. Traces of the past are hidden everywhere: Rofalco, Strompia, Valderico, among the ruins of villages, necropolises, cisterns, bridges, Roman roads and forgotten places of worship.

Here the undisputed king is the boar – nothing new, it is now a regular guest even in urban centers. But in the Selva you can also spot porcupines, foxes, martens, wild cats, squirrels, hares, roe deer and – looking up – maybe even a red woodpecker.

Among the trees they alternate centuries-old Turkey oaks, holm oaks, maples, downy oaks, hornbeams, wild hazelnuts, but also rarer species such as the hackberry, all wrapped in lianas, holly and creepers. On the ground, a carpet of aromatic herbs and mushrooms, among blackthorns, hawthorns, hollies and vitalbes. In spring, the colors of the cyclamen, from the wild orchids and of the daisies.

In the nineteenth century, the Selva del Lamone was the ideal refuge for the Maremma banditsThese men knew the territory perfectly and for the gendarmes who were chasing them it was a natural trap. Even today, with a little imagination, through the morning mists, one seems to glimpse the shadows of Tiburzi, Basil, Ansuini and other "gentlemen" of the time. Some see them as Robin Hood of Tuscia, others remember them as ruthless killersThe truth, probably, lies somewhere in the middle.

Another naturalistic jewel is the Olpeta stream, which flows along the southern border of the Selva, giving rise to two spectacular waterfalls: Pelicotonno, more scenic, and Salabrone, wilder and more hidden. The stream originates from the Mezzano lake, not far away, and flows into the Flower, crossing untouched and uncontaminated landscapes.

To visit the Selva in safety, it is recommended to go through Farnese Visitor Center (tel. 0761.458861), where you can book expert guidesThe center is located near the old wash house, the filming location of Pinocchio by Comencini (1972) with Nino Manfredi and Gina Lollobrigida.

And if you get hungry after the hike, stop at the refuge “Casale Lamone” (tel. 339.4853713), where you can enjoy the suggestive “Brigant's Lunch”: rustic dishes such as acquacotta, wild boar boujone, thorny And spotted – a sheep boiled in broth that tastes of ancient tradition.